Garment and garment construction



Sept. 2, 1947. J. CLYNE 2,426,819

GARMENT-AND GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed Nov. 6, 1945 5 Sheets-Sheet 1INVENTOR JOSEPH CLYNE ATTORNEYS p 947. J. CLYNE I 2,426,819

' GARMENT AND GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed NOV. 6, 1945 .3 Sh eets-Sheet 2INVENTOR JOSEPH GLYNE ATTORNEYS Sept. 2, 1947. .1. CLYNE GARMENT ANDGARMENT CCNSTI iUCTION Filed Nov. 6, 1945 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 INVENTORJOSEPH CLYNE lzmu ia l ATTORNEYS Patented Sept. 2, 1947 HNETED STATESPATENT OFFICE GARMENT AND GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Joseph Clyne, Bronx, N.Y.

Application November 6, 1945, Serial No. 627,009

12 Claims.

My invention relates to improvements in the structure of garments suchas coats, jackets, blouses, waists, shirts and similar type garments,and more particularly to an improvement in the structure of the sleeve,shoulder and side section of the waist of the garment, especiallygarments provided with sleeves of the balmacaan, raglan or dolman typeand similar types of sleeves in which the shoulder and sleeve areintegral.

In most garments having sleeve constructions of the type referred to, itis very common to find that the wearers arm is difiicult to raise andthat when it i raised, there is considerable strain on the upper musclebecause of the manner in which the lower portions of the sleeve areattached to the body of the garment. Fur coats, for example, are oftenprovided with sleeves of the abovementioned types, and it is noteworthythat such coats rip or tear rather quickly around the arms, either infront or in back of the sleeve, or the stitching is torn out under thesleeve so that the garment must be repaired. Various garments, such asraincoats, top coats and other garments provided with sleeves of theabove types are particularly confining because of construction about thesleeve when the wearer is in sitting position. Tension of this type onthe arms of the wearer causes the garment to be pulled out of place,unnecessary discomfort, and prevents the wearer from using his armsfreely.

The primary object therefore of the present invention is to provide animproved garment structure which will obviate the objections anduncomfortableness referred to.

A further object of the invention is to provide an improved garmentconstruction having sleeves of the type referred to which will not onlybe comfortable to the wearer but which will give longer and moresatisfactory service.

Another object-of the invention is to provide an improved garmentstructure having a combined sleeve and waist arrangement such that thewearer will have free arm movement.

According to the features of my invention, the improved garmentstructure comprises a sleeve of the type referred to above in which atleast a part of the sleeve includes an integral armpit section allowancewhich when combined with the waist section of the garment gives astructure permitting free arm movement. At least a part of the allowancemay be an integral part of the section of the garment.

A garment including these features, according to one form of myinvention, includes a waist structure having front and back sections, aside section joined by seams between. the front and back sections andincluding an integral underarm allowance which is also integral with anunder sleeve for the garment. of construction, the. remainder of thesleeve, that is the top sleeve section, comprises two pieces which aresewed together and. to the under sleeve and which include the shouldersection of the garment. In other forms of construction front and backsleeve sections are provided integral with front and back waist sectionsof of the garment.

My invention. includes other features, objects and advantages which willbe described more in detail below in connection with the accompanyingdrawings forming a part of this application.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a diagrammatic pattern type view showing sleeve and bodyelements of an. improved garment construction according to my invention,in which the elements are separated in patternlike form' inapproximately the arrangement in which they are to be joined together.

Fig. 2 is a View partly to one side of the waist section of the garmentillustrating the style and arrangement effected when the elements shownin. Fig. 1 are joined together.

Fig. 3 is a diagrammatic pattern type view showing front and backsections of the waist portion of a garment adopted for sleeves of theraglan type.

Fig. 4 is a diagrammatic pattern type view showing front and back sleeveconstructions for use with the elements of the garment shown, in Fig. 3.

Fig. 5 is a diagrammatic pattern type View showing an integral assemblyof side panel, arm-- pit allowance and under sleeve, for use with theelements shown in Figs. 3 and 4..

Fig. 6 is a View partly to one side illustrating the style of a garmentconstructed fro-m the elements shown in Figs. 3, 4. and 5.

Fig. 7 is a diagrammatic pattern type view showing the front waistsection of a garment of the raglan sleeve type.

Fig. 8 is a view showing the back of a garment of the raglan sleeve typein pattern form and which includes an integral armpit allowance andunder sleeve.

Fig. 9 is a pattern type view showing a onepiece sleeve or a combinedfront and back sleeve for use with the elements shown in Figs. 7 and 8.

Fig. 10 is a view similar to that of Figs. 2 and. 6 showing the waistsection of a garment constructed of the elements shown in Figs. 7, 8 and9.

In certain forms Fig. 11 is a pattern type view similar to that of Fig.3 showing front and back sections of a garment having raglan typesleeves.

Fig. 12 is a view similar to that of Fig. 4.

Fig. 13 is a pattern type view of an under sleeve including an integralarmpit allowance.

Fig. 14 is a. view partly to one side, showing a waist portion of agarment constructed of the elements shown in Figs. 11, 12 and 13.

Referring to Figs. 1 and 2 of the drawings which show a garment having awaist section constructed of a front portion I which includes anintegral front sleeve section l2, 2. back section [4 including anintegral back sleeve l6, and a one-piece side and sleeve section 48including an intgeral side panel 20, an armpit allowance 22 of the shapeshown, and an under sleeve 24.

The three elements shown in Fig. 1 are sewed together to form a garmenthaving the waist structure shown in Fig. 2. In assembling the pieces,the edge 26 is attached to the edge 28 and the wing-like portions oftheallowance 22 are sewed, respectively into the front and back notches 30and 32 between the sleeve sections of the garment and the body sections.

The free arm movement provided by the garment structure illustrated inFig. 2, is shown by the upraised arm and the manner in which thegenerally diamond-shaped allowance 22 fits into the body and the sleevesections of the garment in order to give the necessary freedom. It willbe noted that the long dimension of the diamondshaped allowance extendsfrom front to back of the garment at the armpit or generally cross-wiseof, the under sleeve panel, and that each wing of the allowance 22 fitsdirectly into a notch 30 or 32 which may be merely out in the materialwithout the removal of any material to form the notch.

Figs. $3, 4, and 6 show a modified form of garment construction in whichthe waist section of the garment includes a front section 34 and a backsection 36, cut for the regular raglan type of sleeve or shoulderconstruction, except that the elements 34 and 36 are narrower than thestandard pattern to the extent of the strip areas 38 outside thesections 34 and 36 and within the dotted lines. The garment alsoincludes a back sleeve 40 (Fig. 4) and a front sleeve 42 having integralshoulder sections 44 of the raglan type. The sleeve sections 46 and 42are narrower than those of the standard pattern to the extent of thestrip areas 46 between the edges of the sleeve sections and the dottedlines. The garment as shown in Fig. 6 is similar to that shown in Fig.2, except for the difference in the shoulder construction, and thereforeincludes the element 68 of Fig. 5 comprising an integral side panel 56,under arm allowance 52, and under sleeve 54, of generally the sameconstruction as that shown in Figs. 1 and 2. The elements shown in Figs.3, 4 and 5 are sewed together and combined so as to produce the styleand structure shown in Fig. 6.

Figs. 7, 8, 9 and show a modified form of garment construction of theraglan type and having features similar to those of Figs. 3 to 6. Fig. 7shows a back section 56 which is substantially narrower than thestandard pattern, while Fig. 8 shows a front section 58 having anintegral side panel section 60, an allowance 62 and an under sleeve 64,both integral with the front section 58. In Fig. 8 the allowance 62 hasgenerally the same shape as the allowance 22 and 52 in Figs. 1 and 5,and the material is preferably cut at 66 so that it is resewed to thefront section in order to have the seams take up some of the materialand to provide a symmetrical design as shown in Fig. 10. The garment ofFig. 10 is provided with a one-piece top sleeve 88 of the shape shown inFig. 9, which includes an integral shoulder section 10 the sleeve beingnarrower than the standard pattern to the extent of strip areas 72within the dotted lines. The elements shown in Figs. 7, 8 and 9 areassembled in a manner similar to that of Figs. 1 and 3 to 5 to form agarment having the waist construction and style shown in Fig. 10, thigarment providing unusual freedom of arm movement and simplicity ofconstruction because of the allowance 62 and the under sleeve 64combined with the one-piece sleeve 68 and the integral shoulder section10.

Figs. 11, 12, 13 and 14 show a modified form of garment constructionwhich is somewhat similar to that of Figs. 3. to 6. Fig. 11, however,shows a front section M and a back section i=6, both of standard patternfor a raglan type garment. Fig. 12 shows a back sleeve section 13 and afront sleeve section 8!} which are narrower than the standard patternsby the strip areas 82 within the dotted lines. The sections 18 and 86include the integral shoulder sections as in Fig. 4. Fig. 13 shows anunder sleeve 82 having an integral allowance 3 3 of generally the sameshape as the allowances previously described, the pattern of thematerial in Fig. 13 being of generally sledge-hammer form. The elementsof Figs. 11, 12 and 13 are combined to form the garment structure shownin Fig. 14.

My improved garment construction illustrated by the examples iven above,comprises a combination particularly advantageous in connection withbalmacaan, raglan, dolman and similar type sleeves, to provide a garmentwhich gives freedom of movement of the wearers arms without binding thearm muscles and without distorting the garment on the body of thewearer. The provision of the underarm allowances-of the particularstructures described above appears to oifset the normal bindingcharacter of the particular types of sleeves referred to. It istherefore possible, according to my invention to provide garments havingsleeves of the type of the helmetcaan, raglan and dolman, and at thesame time have a garment in which the wearer has unusual freedom of armmovement.

From the foregoing description and examples shown in the drawings, itwill be apparent that certain variations may be made in the structureand arrangement of the allowances in combination with sleeves whichinclude the shoulder sections of the garment and. still achieve most ofthe objects and advantages of my invention. It is furthermore to beunderstood that the features of my invention may be employed in themaking of the waist portion of various types of garments such asjackets, shirts, ladies waists, coats, raincoats and other types ofwearing apparel. The modifications and changes referred to which will beapparent from the foregoing description and illustrations arecontemplated as coming within the spirit and scope of my invention asdefined by the appended claims.

What I claim as new is:

1. In a garment having sleeves of the raglan type, an improved waistconstruction including front and back sections joined together by a seambelow the armpit of the garment, a sleeve for the garment including atop sleeve section having an integral shoulder section and a separatepanellike under sleeve section for the garment, said under sleevesection including an integral allowance for the armpit of the garment,said allowance being substantially wider than the under sleeve sectionand symmetrically placed at the armpit end of the under sleeve section,and scams joining the sleeve sections together and the sleeve andallowance to the front and back sections of the garment.

2. In a garment having sleeves, an improved waist construction includingfront and back sections, a top sleeve for the garment including sectionsrespectively integral with the front and back sections of the garment,an under sleeve for the garment including an integral allowance for thearmpit of the garment, said allowance being substantially wider than theunder sleeve and symmetrically placed at the armpit end of the undersleeve, and seams joining the under sleeve and top sleeve.

3. In a sleeved garment an improved waist construction having a bodyportion including front and back sections, a top sleeve for the garment,an under sleeve for the garment of panel-like structure including anintegral allowance at its armpit end for the armpit of the garment, saidallowance being of generally oval shape with the longer dimension of theoval-shaped allowance extending generally from front to back at thearmpit of the garment, said oval-shaped allowance being substantiallywider than the panellike sleeve and symmetrically placed at the armpitend of the under sleeve, seams joining the top sleeve to the undersleeve and to the allowance, and scams joining the sleeve and allowanceto the front and back sections of the garment.

4. In a sleeved garment as defined by claim 3 in which the generallyoval-shaped allowance is also integral with a section of the bodyportion of the garment.

5. In a sleeved garment, an improved waist portion including a frontsection, a side section, and a back section, the front and back sectionsbeing joined to the side section by seams in the front and back of thearmpit portion of the garment, said side section comprising an integralpart of a panel providing an under sleeve for the garment, said panelincluding a substantial integral allowance for the armpit portion of thegarment which is substantially wider than the under sleeve, a topsleeve, seams joining the under sleeve and top sleeve, seams joining theallowance to the top sleeve and to the front and back sections, andseams joining the topsleeve to the front and back sections of thegarment, whereby a garment is provided which permits free arm movementwithout distorting the position of the garment on the wearer and withoutbinding the arm muscles of the wearer.

6. In a garment as defined by claim 5 in which the allowance issymmetrical with respect to the under sleeve and side section and isgenerally of diamond shape.

7. In a garment as defined by claim 3 in which the allowance includes asubstantial section extending into the sleeve and a substantial sectionextending into the body portion of the waist of the garment.

8. In a garment as defined by claim 3 in which the allowance in patternform has substantially a flattened octagonal shape.

9. In a sleeved garment having a waist portion comprising front and backsections, a sleeve for the garment including a top sleeve and apanel-like under sleeve joined together by seams, an armpit allowance ofsubstantial area integral with and symmetrically placed at the armpitend of the under sleeve, the allowance being substantially wider thanthe under sleeve proper, the armpit end of the under sleeve andallowance in pattern form including a projection of material on eachside of the end of the under sleeve, each projection being defined by anedge extending laterally at an abrupt angle to the edge of the undersleeve and. a connecting edge extending beyond and generally parallel tothe edge of the under sleeve, seams joining the laterally extendingedges of the allowance on each side of the under sleeve to the topsleeve, and seams joining the sleeve and allowance to the waist portionof the garment.

10. In a sleeved garment as defined by claim 9 in which the top sleevecomprises front and back sections joined by a top seam.

11. A one-piece sleeve section, for use in forming a garment, having aportion to be positioned at the armpit of the garment of generally ovalshape, said portion being so positioned with respect to the sleevesection that when said section is included in a garment said portionextends generally from front to back of the garment, said oval-shapedportion being substantially wider than said sleeve section andsymmetrically positioned with respect thereto.

12. A one-piece, elongated, panel-like sleeve section, for use informing a garment, having a portion of generally oval shape at one endthereof with the greatest dimension of said portion extendingtransversely of said panel-like section, said oval-shaped portion beingsubstantially wider than said panel-like section and positionedsymmetrically with respect thereto.

JOSEPH CLYNE.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file ofthis patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 483,686 Goodman Oct. 4, 18921,388,563 Hanson Aug. 23, 1921 1,965,995 Tripp July 10, 1934 1,986,217Pilla Jan, 1, 1935 2,291,025 Casella July 28, 194'2 2,021,586 Adler Nov.19, 1935 2,390,188 Sholder Dec. 4, 1945 2,312,777 Sholder et al. Mar. 2,1943 2,104,288 Blood Jan. 4, 1938 2,369,416 Solomon Feb. 13, 19452,386,768 Ayoub Oct. 16, 1945 2,179,675 Trageser Nov. 14, 1939

